Eid al-Adha: THE BIG EID

     This is going to be a short entry because the progression of events of this Eid were nearly the exact same as the one in September. The only difference was this one did not start at night and the first night did not begin with giving a portion of one’s yearly salary to charity. This Eid is generally referred to as the big Eid because it is seen to be more important then the first one. The first Eid’ s full name is Eid al-Fitr, which means celebration of breaking fast and its pretty self-explanatory as to the purpose of the holiday. It celebrates the end of fasting during the holy month of Ramadan. Eid al-Adha translates into Celebration of Sacrifice. It celebrates the prophet Abraham, a prophet in Judaism, Christianity and Islam, willing to carry out God’s will and sacrifice his own son, Ishmael. According to the stories, at the last second God said that he only wanted to see if they were truly devout and said that Abraham could sacrifice a bull rather then his son. This is why every Eid al-Adha a bull is sacrificed on the second day. As far as the ritual goes it is similar. Day one people go from house to house eating and epically large breakfast, day 2 the bull gets slaughtered and family time continues and day 3 there is a big family lunch and, for my home stay family, that was the end of it. This is, however, an interesting time of the year for the Arab world. It is the time of the year where many Arabs go on Haj, which is the holy pilgrimage to Mecca and then, walking in the footsteps of Mohamed, take the journey, by foot, from Mecca to Medina. For, Oman specifically it is even more of a busy time because not only is it Haj and Eid but it is also the Sultan’s birthday which is National Day. This year is the 40^th anniversairy of the country’s “rebirth” and big celebrations are ensuing The actual celebration has been moved to early December so the Queen of England could come, as well as Hillary Clinton, and they will be taking place the final three days I am here. The rest of my time here will be filled with research and then National Day celebrations however, there will still be a couple more entries to come.

     

Nizwa: The University, the City, and Hanging With the Students

     On Friday, October 29^th, the group and I arrived in the city of Nizwa. Nizwa is the formal capital of Oman and its forth-biggest city. After a very nice lunch at the hotel where our academic director was staying we made our way to the University of Nizwa, which is located in the near by village of Burkat Al-Mouz. Shortly after our arrival the girls went to begin their rural home stays and the guys were placed in a hostel. Mostly, it was two of us American students to a room with three other Omani students, squeezing five people in a room made for three. Now while the conditions were not exactly five-star I would like to take this opportunity to publicly thank the students, even though there is little to no chance that they will ever read this, for making this place so hospitable. We were greeted with enthusiasm and it was insisted that I sleep on one of the three students’, of whom the room belonged to, beds. There were two other mattresses in the room to sleep on, however, Omani hospitality once again showed up and I was not really given much of a choice. After setting up shop it was suggested to me that I get a shave and a haircut, so I did, and then the entire group, of both American and Omani students, went to get dinner together at a near by Pakistani restaurant.

Villages on Jebel Akdhar

     On Saturday the entire group met at the gates of the university in order to go on a group trip to Jebel Akdhar, which literally translates to Green Mountain (or Vermont, yes we went to Vermont, Oman). This place was high up into the mountains of Nizwa and was actually nearly as high as Denver, in elevation above sea level. It is called Green Mountain, however, by American standards this mountain was not actually green, but you must remember our standards are high and the name really refers to the incredible amount of vegetation and farming that exists on the mountain. We started out our tour with a visit to a luxury hotel that is being built there and we got to see the process of it being built as well as the facilities and the awesome view that will be available to the people staying there. We then made a few more stops where we got to witness more really incredible views as well as climb down into valleys and we climbed to an abandoned village. The weather on the mountain was the best I have experienced in Oman. The people, before I went there, were very enthusiastic about how cold it would be, however, it was very comfortable and in the low to mid 60’s, but I guess that is cold in Oman. Little towns and villages were located all over the mountain and we stopped at one in particular to see how the Falaj system works. Drinkable water is not overly abundant in Oman, especially in the interior, and the Falaj is a water transport system that brings the water, from its source, to the town, for people to use. Some of these things are centuries old and most, if not all, are made from stone. We actually got to walk along the edge of one, and listen to me when I tell you, it was the most terrifying thing I have ever done. This stone water shoot is built on the side of a mountain, and not a mountain that you can climb, but a mountain that is made of large cliffs and if you fell it is hundreds of feet to the ground. Now, the width of this water slide like structure was about two and a half feet from the wall of the mountain but we could not actually walk in the water because people drink from that water so we had to walk along the edge. Remember when you were a kid and you had to walk along the curb of the sidewalk and if you fell into the street, you lost the game. What we had to walk on might have been double the width of one of those curbs. I thought if the wind blew to hard I was going to fall over. But, I made it back alive and after a nice lunch at a park type area on the mountain we all headed back to our respective living situations.

     That night the American guys all headed to the Nizwa souq. This souq was surrounded by what looked like castle walls, giving it a real compound type feel, but it was one of the nicer souqs I have been to. Unfortunately and oddly enough the souq was not open past 9 so we didn’t get much time there but after we left we got some dinner in the city of Nizwa and then went to a hookah bar, where they were showing an important soccer game and met up some of the Omani students hanging out there. There rest of the night consisted of hookah, tea, and what they call football here, but we all know it is soccer.

      That Sunday I went to an English class with some of the students from the hostel. The class consisted of me going around the room trying to teach the students English but basically that just meant that I was giving the people the answers that they didn’t know on the worksheet they were supposed to complete. The teacher looked delighted that I was filling in for him for the day. The class had both boys and girls, but it was segregated, girls on the right and boys on the left. The girls remained mostly quiet for the majority of the class while the boys were loud and often paid little attention to what the teacher was saying. Gender segregation is something that is popular throughout Oman, although it gets more obvious and strict in the more conservative areas.  Nizwa, being one of the more conservative places, almost every where you went boys and girls were separated, and a woman was never seen out of the house too much later then 7 or 8 o’clock. Oman does this because it is a religious and a conservative state and many consider it to be an important religious and cultural aspect of their society to keep men and women separated until they decide on one, or a few more in some cases, to marry. Some people might make the argument that integrating schools causes distractions and can become inappropriate but in my opinion men and women learn a lot from one another and only benefit from having a diverse environment. Nizwa only backed up that theory.

     The rest of the week was filled with various recreations, most of them fun. I wanted to hit an economics class but sadly none of the professors allowed me in. Monday morning a friend and I went on the hike in the many mountains that surround Burkat Al-Mouz and Tuesday evening we went to watch our hostel’s soccer team play a game. The final day in Nizwa we spent visiting various villages around the city, as a group, and then spent a few hours in the evening at The Golden Tulip Hotel, relaxing and sitting by the pool. 

     Nizwa was a really valuable part of my trip. I made a lot of friends with the Omani students as well as got an excellent picture of what college life is like in Oman, or at least in the University of Nizwa. Now it is time to spend the rest of the trip focusing on research and getting this ISP wrapped up. There still, however, may be three or four more blogs to come.

The Sharqiyah Region

Wadi

     After the conclusion of my classes, here in Oman, the completion of my Arabic final, and a long and heavy sigh, the group and I began our final excursion of the semester. The final excursion is actually a combination of two excursions, one to the Sharqiyah Region, the region on the eastern coast of Oman, and the other is to the interior city and formal capital, Nizwa. Wednesday, the 27^th of October, we left the World Learning Center at around midday and had a long drive ahead of us, which I was ok with because the Arabic final was an extremely exhausting activity. After a couple of hours on the bus we reached our first stop, which was a Wadi, of which I cannot remember the name. For all of you who do not know what a Wadi is, which is probably everyone, it is essentially a large canyon or valley with a river in it. Thanks to the lack of rain, and water in general, in this country the first mile or so of the valley was mostly dry and the red, rocky mountains that seems to characterize Oman towered on either side of the group as we walked.  Eventually we came upon deep water which was as blue as the water in the Caribbean and we had to walk along a relatively thin walkway which eventually turned into a cliff 30 feet or so above the water.  A bunch of the group went on to further explore but a couple of us never made it down the whole way because the lure of a bunch of cliffs 30 to 40 feet above the water was just too much to bear. We proceeded to spend the next hour and a half having the time of our lives finding new and creative ledges to jump off of into the sky blue water.

     After the Wadi and another hour and a half on the bus we made it to our first stop in the Sharqiyah Region, Ras al-Had. In this particular place we did not stay in a hotel, but at a camp ground. The grounds were interesting in that they consisted of a tent to eat dinner, a carpeted area with a fire place to relax, shower and toilet huts, and a bunch of other bedroom huts that resided in their own area.  The inside of the huts were filled with three small beds and no room for anything else. There was no air conditioning or things like that either, but it got fairly cool out there in the evening so it wasn’t too big of a deal. After we ate and got settled we headed off to the beaches because on most nights you can see turtles, which heavily populate the surrounding waters of Oman, laying their eggs. We went with a tour guide and we were lucky enough to spot some turtles. They two we saw were pretty huge, being about 3 or 4 feet from head to tail and having an even larger fin span. We even saw some recently hatched baby turtles making their way from the beach to the ocean.

Boat Being Built

     The following day we woke up early ate a quick breakfast and then left Ras al-Had. We spent the day in Sur, the second biggest Omani city. I would like to take this opportunity to apologize for my mistake. I have previously stated that Salalah is the second biggest Omani city, however, it is the third and Sur is the second. There are so many mosques in Sur it is actually known as Minaret City and it is right on the water giving the place a beautiful view of the Arabian Gulf. We visited a “factory” where they build what seemed like merchant vessels and a view boats were in the process of being built, which was really great to see. We then took a boat ride around the city, got something to eat, and made our way to our second destination in the Sharqiyah Region, The Wahiba Sands.

Sandboarding on Wahiba Sands

     The Wahiba Sands is a huge tourist destination for other people from the Middle East and Europe visiting Oman on vacation so when we arrived there were not many Omanis there but a lot of British and German people. This place is a camp ground located in the middle of the dessert and by dessert I don’t mean the red, rocky, jagged, semi-sandy mountains that populate most of Oman but I mean rolling sand dunes that go on a long, long way.  The campgrounds here were somewhat similar to Ras al-Had as in there were a bunch of huts where people resided as well as a bathroom and shower hut. The dinner/living area was a good amount larger, however, to accommodate the large amount of tourists. We got there in the mid after noon it was extremely hot. The huts were almost identical to those in Ras al-Had in that all there really was in them was three beds and a little bit of space to leave your bags. The electricity wasn’t even turned on till sun down. We spent our time that day sand boarding, playing American football, in the sand, and dune bugging, which is packing into a four-wheeler and speeding over and around the sand dunes. The night was actually very peaceful. It got pretty chilly there and I hung out by the fire and smoked hookah and relaxed. Eventually, I went to bed and the next day we were up, out and on our way to University of Nizwa. 

Doha: A Liiiiiiitttttle Bit Like Home

Skyline of New Doha

     When we arrived in Doha, the capital city of Qatar, from Dubai, I was immediately thrilled with the contents of my surroundings. There was finally a city with a skyline, something that I have not seen since I left the U.S, made up of skyscrapers that looked pristine and modern. The hotel we stayed at, called The Swiss-Bell Hotel, was extremely nice. The rooms were enormous with free Internet access, unbelievably comfortable beds, and one of the most excellent bathrooms/showers that I have ever experienced.

     Qatar is a unique country, in the Gulf area, in that is trying to present itself to the world as a forum for fair and free international policy. Although the government is autocratic, lead by Hamad bin Khalifa Althani, the founding of Al-Jazeera is arguably the most shining example of free press in this part of the world. Qatar is home to one of the largest U.S military bases, outside The United States itself, and also engages in some interactions with countries like Iran, promoting progress for peaceful foreign policy, through out the region.

     The Doha Debates are a huge statement on the way Qatar wants to present itself to the world. A place where international and controversial topics can be discussed and debated in a fair setting. This year’s Doha Debate was about the French ban on the face veil and I was lucky enough to be sitting in the audience watching. The proposition argued that the veil is not appropriate in a country where there is a separation of church and state and the face veil heightens the risk of terrorism as well as creates a general anti social attitude and separation within a community. The opposition argued that the ban was targeting too small a group to be affective, it was immoral for governments to tell people how to dress, and it was just another example of the increased “Muslim bating” that has been seen around Europe in recent years. The two sides went back and forth and it was all very interesting, but in the end the opposition won.

     After the debate we went to The Souq Waqif, or “The Old Souq”. In some areas it looked like a re-done and re-built version of the older areas, where up and down the street there are fancy restaurants that are significantly more expensive then ones you traditionally see in Souqs. Then you walk down the way a bit and you come upon a labyrinth of all the same type of stores that you would see in Souq Mutrah, and there were portions of it that were in doors that looked a lot like Souq Mutrah. The merchandise being sold in this part of the Souq ranged from a cafeteria of herbs and spices to actual falcon shops.

     Souq Waqif was actually renovated relatively recently and parts of this are easy to see. None, if any of the souqs that I have been to thus far have had the style of restaurant that is common to the new “Old Souq”. The shop owners are a lot more like the one in Oman than the ones in Dubai and just call to you from their stores as opposed to being overly aggressive. This may be due to less poverty and subsequent desperation or it could be due to a more lax attitude. Either way it lead to a much nicer Souq experience.

Al Jazeera Logo 

     The highlight of the second day in Doha was the tour of Al-Jazeera head quarters. Al-Jazeera is the best example of free press in the region and it was really great being able to see the foundation of how it all functions. Al-Jazeera was formed in 1996, when the BBC shut down their Arabic channel, in an effort to bring accurate information to the people of the Arab world, a luxury that many in the region lacked. The news station was able to be created as well as is still sustained by government loans which creates suspicions in some people’s minds where the news station’s loyalties lie, however, it seems that in most cases the information reporting is pretty accurate. In 2006 Al-Jazeera English was formed so that non-Arab audiences could still be able to view the content of their broadcasts without a language barrier. The tour started out with Al-Jazeera English and it was unbelievable to see the way one of the most controversial news organizations in the world functioned. The entire newsroom was beating to the same pulse, it seemed, as we watched broadcasters being filmed and other employees constantly going about doing their business. We got to pay a visit to the original room that Al-Jazeera was built out of and it was really impressive to see how the channel has grown over the past 14 years.

     The final day in Doha we went to visit Education City. The Emir’s wife has been very public in her quest to improve the country’s education and Education City is one of her most triumphant victories. Starting with Virginia Commonwealth and coming to include Northwestern and Georgetown, seven of America’s finest schools have opened campuses in this oasis of western education in the Middle East. All of the campuses are located in the same plot of land and all of them are relatively close to one another allowing students to have the ability to meet people from different schools and share what they have learned. Also, students are not required to be Qatari and many of the students we met were Palestinian or Jordanian as well as one Omani. We started the day at 7:30 with one of the most compelling lectures I have ever listened to from the Dean of Georgetown. Almost all of the campuses only offer one major or specialization and the idea is to choose a campus/major that suits your interests. Georgetown’s major is International Affairs and the Dean lectured us on Qatar’s role in Gulf and World politics as well as other interesting topics. We then headed to the Texas A&M campus for a lecture by “The Qatar Foundation”, which is the organization founded by the Emir’s wife that has allowed all of this to happen. The rest or our morning and early afternoon was filled with tours of campuses which was very interesting and all of them were equipped with gear, just as advanced as you would see in The United States. We ate lunch with students from the Northwestern campus, whose specialization is in Journalism. It was great to meet students from the university and talk with them over lunch as well as watch their student made films. While almost all of their families came from The Middle East many of them were from places like Canada, The U.S, or Europe, because that is where their families’ currently reside. The end of our day consisted of two more very interesting lectures and a nice relaxing final night at our fantastic hotel. 

Dubai - Las Vegas of the Middle East

Burj Khalifa

     After spending six weeks in Oman, learning and understanding the culture that makes this place so unique, it was nice to get out of the country, for a bit, to experience something new. Going from Muscat to Dubai could not have been a bigger adjustment. Some part of me thinks that I actually experienced more culture shock from this situation than coming from New York to Oman.

      As I rode in the bus, from Sharja International Airport, towards Dubai, I looked around at the speckled groupings of tall, very tall, and the tallest buildings that make the region so famous. It seemed as though each one of these mini cities carries with it its own theme. There is an education city that consists of different colleges and educational institutions and there is a media city that holds all the media outlets, and there are others like this. The Mall of Dubai was this massive place that is at least five times the size of any mall I have ever been to. There are seemingly endless amounts of stores filled with all different kinds of expensive merchandise and it also incorporates various modes of entertainment, besides enough shopping to keep you busy and broke for years, such as an ice-skating rink and an aquarium.. The Mall of the Emirates has its “Ski Dubai” attraction, which is not just a small fake mountain for people to ski on, but also an entire ski resort. It had restaurants and ski shops that, all put together, makes a person actually feel like they are in a ski lodge. As you are leaving these places, scratching your head as to how anyone can afford any of this, you then see some of the nicest cars you will ever see parked out front, and your question is answered.

     Dubai is not like most of its Gulf brethren in that it is not gifted with all of the natural resources that Abu Dhabi, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait are blessed with. This makes all of the glamorous and “larger than life” infrastructure a very respectable achievement because the government had to generate all of that revenue from virtually nothing. They created an environment that was friendly to foreign investment in a way not many, if any, places in the region have been capable of doing. The financial crisis has hit the place hard and evidence of that is easy to see, however, the lavish infrastructure still attracts wealth from all over the Gulf and the world to come, invest, and have a good time.

     Many people consider Dubai to be a cultureless wasteland where good old traditions have been thrown to the wind in order to make way for an unwelcome amount of glitz and glamour. To me Dubai was semi successful experiment on what a state, with no natural resources, can do if it really puts its mind to it. There is a culture there and it is based off the consumerism and glamour that it has become so famous for. When I go home an tell people about Oman it will be about the Sultan’s amazing development achievements and the people’s subsequent love for him, about the lifestyle based around WE and not ME, and about the general friendly disposition that most of the people here carry with them. When I tell people about Dubai it will be about the malls, the rich men that you see in and outside them as well as the hotels, and the large amount of western chains have made their way into the city. This is not an absence of culture, but a culture on its own. 

Salalah - That's Where I Wanna Go

Village of Taqah 

     In my just over a month of living in Oman I have come to realize that it is lucky enough to incorporate a variety of different types of people, languages, cultures, and landscapes. This variety can be seen, on a very micro scale, as in, within the capital of Muscat, where you have the Omani population as well as European ex-patriots, Pakistanis, Indians, as well as many others. However, looking at a much larger, or macro, scale is the differences between the northern part of Oman and the southern region, known as Dhofar. Comparing and contrasting the two is almost as though you are comparing and contrasting two different countries. I always knew there were differences but I did not truly understand how different until I took a trip to Salalah with the rest of the SIT students.

     There is a long history of the Dhofar region and its people, however, I am not totally clear on all of it so I will do my best to give a short yet accurate account of the past 45 years. In 1965, the final ruling years of Sultan Qaboos’ father, the Dhofari people felt that they should secede from northern Oman and thus, civil war ensued. It is an odd situation because the whole time that the Dhofar wars were going on in Salalah the current Sultan along with his father were hauled up in their Salalah palace. In 1970 Sultan Qaboos bin Said rose to power and within 5 years he put an end to the war, uniting Oman once and for all. He did this with, what Dhofari and Northern Omani people alike consider, one of the most charismatic and moving speeches of all time. In this speech he laid out his dreams for Oman, his dream of unity, of development, and of modernity. Since then Dhofar has been a large part of achieving that dream, being the largest exporter of Frankincense in the world as well as other goods, like bananas and coconuts, and attracting tourists from all over The Gulf and Europe to see its unique natural features. These unique natural features mainly include the tropical setting that is Salalah, and surrounding regions. In what is called the “Al Khariif” season a monsoon comes and all the rain produces mountains that are the same color as the mountains right outside Boulder during the summer. No-where else in the Arabian Gulf is one so surrounded by colors other then the red glow of desert.
     My trip began in the earlier hours of Wednesday, September 29^th as I boarded a plane to Salalah from Muscat International Airport. We arrived in Salalah at around noon and with out skipping a beat we made our first stop. The Ministry of Tourism was extremely interesting to me because it will play a big part in my final paper and just as I had suspected almost the entire meeting was like a time share presentation dedicated to selling the lot of us on all of the unique properties Salalah had to offer. “Come to beautiful Salalah” the presentation said with a slide show playing in the background filled with pictures of beautiful landscapes and soothing music.

Salalah Port

     After the ministry we headed off to the Salalah Free Zone. What a free zone is, for all of you who don’t share my infinite amount of knowledge, is a place set aside for foreign companies to set up shop independent, mostly, from the Omani government. The “Free Zone” was still mostly empty space but we could see the budding foreign investment as a few factories were built and being built and the tour guide was very informative in telling us the big plans for the future.

     We then made our way to the Salalah ports. These were quite the sight to see. The bus drove us up onto a hill over looking the entire port, which resides on The Indian Ocean, and our tour guide explained to us its main functions. Ships coming from all over the world would stop at these ports and there were products imported from Africa as well as resources like frankincense as well as others being exported out. We were lucky enough to see an Indian ship filled to the brim with cows that were being imported, which as a guilt prone American, really made me think (mostly about cheeseburgers but you get the point). These ports are at a large part of the economy down there in Dhofar and it was a great experience getting to see how they functioned.

    Something incredible happened after this. We got a break. The group and I headed to a hotel called Hafa House for a couple of hours to eat some lunch and rest up for the night ahead. The hotel was actually very nice. This may be because I am on Hotel Naseem standards; the hotel we stayed at during orientation, however, and it seemed to be a pretty good spot. The rooms had comfortable beds, a sitting area, a TV, a cupboard, a chest of drawers and most importantly, a very nice bathroom. The group all went out to get lunch and went back to have some fun at the establishment’s fine swimming establishments, however, when we got back we were disappointed to find out that it was the one hour a week that was for ladies only. It is a time for women to truly express themselves in a pool like setting. This, as it happens, worked out very well for me as I found two local Dhofari youths to chat with for a good 45 minutes.

    At 5 o’clock the bus picked us up and took us all to the Al Baleed archeological site. Here, a very cool guide named Ya’rob took the group around to look at old, dilapidated mosques and we saw Frankincense Land as a testament to the regions chief export. There was not much to see here and while we are being taught not to judge but interpret what we see, my short supply of patience and attention span lead me to believe most of what I was looking at was not much more then mounds of dirt. We spent some time in the museum, learning about the region and saw models of the different boats used for trade as well as learned about Islam in Dhofar. This was very interesting considering I love the water so learning about a place whose entire economy rested on marine trade was a truly valuable experience.

     We went to Hafa Souq, the big Souq in Salalah, for some dinner and shopping. It was, for the most part, similar to many of the souqs found in Muscat. It featured the same diversity in people and products that the souqs here generally do, however, it did not quite measure up to the beauty and style of the Mutrah Souq. After a quick run through of the many shops we all met for dinner at an Indian restaurant and ate a delicious dish called mushakeek, which is like a shish kebab.

     The second day was even busier than the first. We started off the day by going to Dhofar University, where we were served a very pleasant breakfast while listening to a lecture by a woman named Janet Williamson. Ms. Williamson is the director of the Engineering College at Dhofar University and she was Canadian before becoming an Omani citizen. She had spent a lot of her youth traveling and in the late 70’s, just after Sultan Qaboos had taken over and when Oman was still quite under developed; she arrived in Oman to become a teacher. Since then she has converted to Islam and become a Salalah man’s second wife and had three children of her own with him. When I first heard this, the same thing went through my head that is most likely going through all of yours. I thought, “How could this empowered and intelligent woman just forfeit all of her values of independence and become a man’s second wife. But before you judge a few steps must be taken. The first is you just have to accept that is would never work for you and that becoming a man’s second wife is just totally something that is foreign and out of the question. Then you have to take into account that this woman has her own house in which she lives, with her three children, and is still a prominent figure in the education community of Salalah. Finally consider that Ms. Williamson was intent on creating a life for herself here in Oman and to do that a woman really needs to have a man in her life to provide her with security and stability, especially in Salalah. After these things are considered, while still remaining foreign and almost backwards, it is easier to see how this choice may have been right for the type of person that Ms. Williamson is.

Taqah

     After a very interesting lecture on the history and culture of Dhofar we were formally introduced to two of Ms. Williamson’s three children, one of which is named Susan and the other Talal and then we headed to a small village a little bit outside Salalah named Taqah. This village is both the birthplace and the resting place of the Sultan’s mother and while we were there we were not only able to explore one of the old forts but also see the location of her grave. The fort was in a similar construction as many of the other forts that are so common to Oman but being inside one was certainly interesting.

     The entire drive to Taqah and then onward was all up the coast of Dhofar, which is along the Indian Ocean. We were able to stop on the beach for a bit and see the pristine sands, with almost no one on it, and the blue water that resembled a similar color to what you would see in the Caribbean. Eventually we came to another Archeological sight called Khor Rori, which is an abandoned village that over looked what is known as the Valley of the Witches. This place carried all the same types of eeriness that you can find in Salem, Massachusetts, where the witch trials took place. It is unknown why this town was abandoned but strange goings on have been supposedly witnessed in the valley below, especially every Thursday night, when some of the more shady locals go there to practice “black magic”.

     All this and it was only lunch time. We were lucky enough to have a four-course meal scheduled at the Marriot in the village of Mirbat, a village a bit more then an hour outside of Salalah. The Marriot, as always, is a beautiful place, located on the beach with a great view of the ocean. I was lucky enough to finish lunch early and spent the next 45 minutes listening to James Taylor on the beach. It was one of the most relaxing times in my entire life. On the way back to Salalah we stopped at this Darbat looking point and the beauty of the rolling green hills that this point looked over is too vast for me to even try to explain so ill just let the pictures do the talking.

     After a swim in the Hafa House pool and a quick nap we met Ya’rob, Susan, Tilal and our other hosts set up a huge barbeque in a dirt field a bit off the highway. It was great because there was tons of food and it was extremely relaxing. I took it upon myself to try camel meat, which tasted suspiciously like lamb, and we drank camel milk, however, I only had one sip because to me it tasted like warm grease and it apparently wreaks havoc on your entire digestive system. We finished off the night with a lesson from Ya’rob in Dhofari dancing, and let’s just say I dance like a rythemless American.

     On the final day of our trip we woke up early and made our way into the mountains to the prophet Job’s tomb. The drive was extremely enjoyable because it was a first hand look at the green mountains that I have been telling you about this entire time. For those of you who do not know the story of Job he was a man who lived over 3000 years ago in the Mediterranean are of the Middle East, I believe in the Lebanon area but I’m not 100 percent on that. He was a rich man and one day God took away all of his wealth and power and left him penniless so he and his wife picked up and moved to Yemen. There, he became very sick with leprosy and was forced to be a shut in, leaving only his wife to take care of him. Through out all of this he remained patient, faithful that God would reward him for his faith despite his suffering and low and behold he was right. God restored wealth, health and youth, to him and his wife and they lived the rest of their days on the border of Yemen and Oman, where is still buried today. The tomb was a really intense place for a multitude of reasons. The first is that it was so old that the original direction of the prayer area faced towards Jerusalem, which was the holy hot spot before Mecca was. Also, there were tons of people there praying and showing their respect and being that Job was one of the earliest prophets people get really into it. Finally, Job is a prophet in Judaism, Christianity, and Islam, which makes him really important to a lot of people and to be at the tomb of someone of that magnitude was just a really cool feeling.

     The final hours of hour trip were spent on the beach hanging out and eating lunch. After this we went back to the hotel, packed up and were on our way. Salalah and all the places we visited had a truly lasting effect on me and I can say confidently that our paths will cross again soon. 

A Quick Description of Class

     Having been here for a month and having been through three weeks of class, which also happens to be half the total class I take, I thought I would take it upon myself to update you on what my day to day is like, here in Oman. First it would be prudent for me to inform you that the week here is Saturday to Wednesday as opposed to Monday to Friday. Every Saturday through Tuesday I get picked up outside my house at 8 o’clock or so and we get to the World Learning Center at around 8:15. From 8:15 to 8:45 I am in my first Arabic class and because I am the only one in my level I take this with a private tutor. When all the other classes get let out we know that the class is over and we are all on a nice half-hour long break. I typically do not eat breakfast but I usually use this time to make myself tea and check facebook and my email, you know the truly important things. At 10:15 we all go back to class for an hour, and during this time I have the option of studying by myself, however, I usually study with the intermediate class. At 11:15 we get a short fifteen-minute break and then we go into our final hour, which switches off between conversational Arabic and Omani dialect, which I also spend with the intermediate class. At 12:30 we, theoretically, have a break until three, which is often filled with random meetings, involving, talking about the program and how it’s going and things like that. I do find time to eat lunch, however, and then at 3 or 4 it is time for my econ lecture. The program is split up into two tracts, Political Culture and Economic Development, and 5 of us, including me are in the econ track. After a two-hour lecture our school day is over and I head home. The rest of the night is filled with homework, dinner, maybe a run and sleep.

     Wednesday is a little bit different. There is no Arabic and we start our day at 9 with a three-hour research methods lecture by our Academic Director. This is primarily an anthropology class mainly directed at preparing us for the last month of the semester, when we are writing our ISP. We then have our long lunch break and the day is finished with another econ lecture and/or a reading debrief, which is basically when we all gather and discuss the weekly readings. This week we finished on Tuesday with our Arabic midterm and then, on Wednesday, we left for the southern city of Salalah. 

Matrimony Omani Style

During my nine-day long vacation from classes that was given to us in celebration of Eid al-Fitr Ahmed’s 15-year old niece got married and I was fortunate enough to attend the wedding. Weddings in Oman are typically three days long and my home stay family and I went to the second day. I am not particularly sure on the goings on of every detail of the full three days of the wedding but I will do my very best to describe my experience.

Couple of guys relaxing after dinner

     The first day of the event, I believe, is a ceremony, the second day is the party, which the bride’s family and the groom’s family have separately and the third day is when the bride’s entire family takes her to the village of the groom to “give her away”. As previously mentioned we attended the second day of the wedding and this was an interesting affair. Being that it is Ahmed’s niece that was the blushing bride to be we were present at the bride’s party and it was absolutely a party for the women. Upon arrival to the small village in the interior of Oman I noticed that the men and the women were mostly separated. The house was crowded with people, mostly women, filtering in and out and there was a large party tent set up outside in the yard. The women were not in their traditional public dress of a black Ibaya and Hijaab. They were dressed in extravagant and colorful Omani dresses, and were not interested in socializing with any men let alone getting their picture taken by a foreign one so all I saw of them was when they were walking to and from the party tent. This was no surprise to me, though, because I was finally getting the full picture of the degree of modesty demonstrated by the women here in Oman. 

The dj was a man so he had to do his thing outside the tent

     After most of the women had filtered into the tent the men who were there sat down on an assortment of carpets outside of the house and ate dinner, which consisted of meat and rice. When dinner was finished some of the men cleaned up the plates and others sat, conversed and drank coffee for the remainder of the time I was there. While all of us men were sitting outside we could easily hear the loud thumping music of the bride’s party tent.  When describing the experience later to some of my peers I likened the experience to a 8^th grade dance, being that all of the girls were inside dancing and having fun and all of the guys were hanging out outside, most likely wishing they were on the inside. This is of course a ridiculous comparison, being that in Oman, this was a long tradition of wedding protocol, but it was still a funny thought.

      The experience for me was extremely valuable in that it gave me a chance to converse one on one with a bunch of Ahmed’s brothers and cousins who spoke no English at all. After two hours of this my head hurt but speaking the Arabic language as well as getting to witness, first hand, a large part of Omani culture was an extremely positive one. 

Eid - Translation: Party Time

Ramadan is an Islamic holiday which occurs a month out of every year. During this time Muslim people will fast from sun up to sun down and the idea is to get some idea as to what it feels like to be too poor to be able to afford food or drinkable water on a regular basis. I myself tried it out and I have got to say, while not eating was not easy but it was manageable, not being able to drink water for the span of a hot Oman day was no walk in the park. Eid al-Fitr is the three-day celebration marking the end of this month of fasting and a return to normality.

     The start of Eid can be estimated within a 2 or 3-day range at any point in the year; however, one does not know the official start of Eid until the nights before it begins. It was the evening of Thursday, September 9^th when a chosen committee climbed some mountain to observe the moon to determine the beginning of Eid. I am not sure how it is determined but as it turned out Eid began that night. During this first night of Eid Ahmed, the head of the household went to a very poor area of town with a bag of food for everyone in the house to distribute to the poor as well as a percentage of his annual income. Back at the house the children of the neighborhood would go from house to house, like Halloween, and receive small amounts of money from each one.

     The first day of Eid, following the first night, consisted of waking up relatively early and going from house to house, of friends and family, eating, what I like to call, Ultra Breakfast. The food literally never stops getting offered to you. This coincides with the Muslim and Omani tradition of charity and good will. It is almost like a three day long Christmas. When Ultra Breakfast was over I was taken back to Ahmed’s uncle’s house where incidentally a classmate of mine lives. I listened to them play various Bob Marley and other Arabic songs that I was unfamiliar with on the drums and guitar until it was time for a nap and the father, Sa’ad, took me home. Omani men had to wake up even earlier then I did that day to pray and even on a normal day there is time for a nap around 3 or 4 o’clock. The rest of the day consisted of sleeping off the day’s eating and a light dinner and we all went to bed early to get ready for the next day’s events.

     The second day of Eid I woke up at 4:45 a.m. in order to accompany Ahmed for the early morning events. It is important to understand that in Oman everything is done with the family, so the first thing we did was pick up some of Ahmed’s brothers and then we drove to a vacant lot in the back allies of Muscat, where the bulls were being kept. Now as a country that is prone to feeling somewhat guilty about our meat eating habits, most of us Americans are not in the habit of watching the process of how our cows become our steaks. This is what I witnessed on the second morning of the Eid holiday.

     It started out with a handful of grown men roping a bull and taking it out of the stall where it was being kept. Then these grown men using the ropes and all their strength wrestled this animal to the ground. Finally a man came over and ended the beast by slitting its throat multiple times. The next hour and a half was filled with taking the bull apart piece by piece and let me tell you, nothing was spared. Even the skin/fur was used in order to make rugs and other such things.

     I got back to my house at around 815 and went to sleep while Ahmed and his brothers went back to the family house in order to begin cutting up the large chunks of meat into edible portions. The rest of us did not get to the family house, where lunch was taking place, until around noon and the mend were still in the TV room, called a Majlis, cutting up the meat. We ate a quick lunch and went home about an hour later, and then spent the rest of the day relaxing.

     The final day of Eid was the least eventful, but it was the day that we all got to eat the bull that I watched get cut up the day before. The family and I went back the Ahmed’s brothers’ home and we ate what is called the Shua. What that is, is the meat is rapped up in banana leaves held together by chicken wire as and rapped in foil and other such concealments and then buried and barbequed underground. I am not entirely sure the method in which it is cooked but it comes out extremely fatty and it served on a large plate of rice. The men ate in the Majlis and the women ate in another room, which is interesting from an American perspective, but looking at it from an Omani perspective it seemed the normal and proper way to go about a nice afternoon lunch. 

And The Homestay Begins...

     After a very educational 5 days filled with countless lectures, drop offs, and visits to various Omani sights as well as just the right amount of time for a formal introduction to my peers, supervisors and professors it was time to leave the al-Naseem hotel and move in with my Omani family.  It was the Wednesday after I arrived here in Oman when the father of the family I am staying with, by the name of Ahmed, picked me up from The World Learning Center and brought me back to his house, in a part of Muscat called Seeb. His house is located near a LuLu’s Hypermarket, which is more or less a Costco, as well as a few other shops that may prove useful over the next couple of months that I am staying here. Upon arriving at the house I was introduced to his 5-year-old daughter, Sumaya, as well as is 4-year-old son Habeeb, who both greeted me very politely and seemed very happy to meet me. It was then that Omani hospitality was made perfectly apparent to me as it was explained by Ahmed that I should think of the house as my own and he then suggested that I take a nap. For all of you that know me, you know just how beautiful a nap suggestion sounds to me.

My Room 

     Ahmed’s house is constructed, in a very interesting way, so that there are a bunch of rooms, some connected, some not, around an outside, open roof, common room area. The main part of the house consists of a living/TV room right next to the entrance, a kitchen, a couple of shower rooms, then there is the main part of the house with my room then a hallway then a play room as well as a bathroom then another hallway with the children’s room and the master bedroom. The housemaid, a very pleasant Sri Lankan woman, putters around the house cleaning up after the children and taking care of their youngest, an 11 month old girl named Lyaan.

Outside Common Area

     After my nap and a shower I met the youngest child as well as the mother of the family, an extremely nice South African woman who is also an English teacher at a school, here in Muscat. It is nice because English is her first language so it is refreshing having another adult around who speaks fluent English; both the two older children speak pretty good English as well. It was then I was also introduced to the multitude of pets that inhabit this house. They consist of a female cat named Mr. Ugly and her six unnamed kittens, two unnamed birds, a rabbit and three turtles.

     As it is Ramadan there is no eating or drinking in the house before sun down and being a guest in this home I tried my very best to abide by these rules as well. So every day for the following week or so we began the day by eating breakfast at 4 am then Ahmed would go to pray and I would go back to sleep then there would be no eating again until Iftar which is the breaking of the day’s fast. After Iftar there would be a dinner, which usually, for my family, took place around 930 and then everyone would go to bed around 1030. The first weekend I was in the house consisted of me playing with the children and just trying to get a general feel for Omani home life, which is different enough but even more so now that it was Ramadan. Before I knew it the first weekend was over and it was time to begin classes.  

Day at the Arms Museum

     

     On the final full day of orientation SIT split us up into four different groups and each one would be sent to a different museum in Muscat. My group was sent to The Armed Forces Museum and it was quite something. Oman is country that many Americans do not know much about, but its military history is something that even less Americans know anything about, this is including myself. I was surprised, however, to find that the country truly did have a rich and interesting military history.

     The museum had an inside and an outside section and the inside was split up into two floors. We were given a tour guide, a lance corporal of the royal guard of Sultan Qaboos, and he started us on the first floor, when Islam came to Oman. The whole first part of the tour it was explained to us, in only Arabic, how Oman, while it was an Imamate (ruled by imams), was governed and what went on in those first thousand years or so. The tour included seeing what Omani weapons looked like back then as well as forts and other such things. We then saw the colonial presence in Oman during the 15 and 1600’s by the Portuguese and then the expulsion of the Portuguese with the help of modern day Iran., who would also come to colonize Oman. We then saw how British established themselves in the region as well as the transition of Oman from an Imamate to a Sultanate and how the current ruling family of Sultans came to power (in 1804, which means 206 years of rule, in case any one was wondering). The museum did a great job of showing how Omani people migrated to east Africa, Zanzibar, and how that affected, and still affects to this day, the current diversity of peoples here in Oman. Perhaps the most interesting part was seeing the modernizing of weapons in model form, from spears and axes to weapons they picked up from European traders and colonizers. The entire first floor was dedicated to Oman up until 1970 and then at the end we learned about the beginning of the current Sultan’s rule.

     The top floor was completely dedicated to the past 40 years and how Sultan Qaboos reformed the country’s military. At first most of the exhibits showed how the Sultan unified the country and defeated the rebels of Southern Oman, Dhofar, who were comprised mainly of opposing tribes. Different rooms of this floor showed the current state of affairs of Oman’s army and navy and other such things.  It is interesting to consider the respect that is given to the current Sultan as half of the entire museum is given to all of Oman’s history before his rule and half is given to his rule, which makes up only 40 years.

     My favorite part of the entire tour, however, was when we got to the outside portion. Outside was where the models of the airplanes of the Sultan’s air force and tanks of the army and even ships of the navy and they were all, if not actual old military vehicles, life size. 

Omani Higher Education, The U.S Embassy and a Home Cooked Meal

Sultan Qaboos University

     Sultan Qaboos has a wide appeal in the country of Oman and it is not hard to understand why. He provided the funding for The Grand Mosque out of his own pocket and he created infrastructure in a place where there was virtually none before him. Sultan Qaboos University is a prime example and this is where we started our fourth day. In May of 2002 the Sultan visited the university and was not completely pleased with what he saw. He then provided the funding for all new facilities including a library, classrooms, and auditoriums that all look like they could have been built in the United States. The staff was extremely friendly in showing the group their facilities and welcomed us to use them whenever we needed.

Study room in the library of Sultan Qaboos University 

     We then headed to the American Embassy and got an introduction, from a member of the security team of the embassy, on safety in Oman for Americans as well as a lecture from an embassy employee who dealt with the American Embassy’s PR in Oman. He gave us a brief understanding of what the American Embassy does for Omani people and what it could do for us, should we need it. We did not, unfortunately, spend much time outside of the lecture room in the embassy so the trip was a bit short.

Sultan Qaboos University Court Yard

      Dinner, the fourth night, was a special occasion because the group was invited to eat with an Omani family on the roof of a center that gives women jobs sewing.  A quick history of this center is a woman opened it years ago in order to employ poor women in Muscat by sewing. The project has since expanded and I believe they will soon be opening an Internet café among other projects and it has had a very positive impact on the poorer female community within Muscat. The dinner was served in three portions. The first portion is the breaking of the fast of Ramadan called Iftar and it is essentially an appetizer course. Dates and sweeter foods are usually served but the woman who cooked made mini pizzas especially for us Americans. Dinner was chicken and rice as well as potato dishes and cheese crescents. For desert they served puddings and other sweet foods as well as coffee that I personally did not like very much. 

     

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque and Shaikh Lecture

The entrance to Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

The outside of Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque.
When the Mosque is full this entire court is
filled with people praying. 

The third day of orientation started with an early trip to The Grand Mosque of Sultan Qaboos, which was built from 1996 to 2001. It is the largest mosque in Oman and among the biggest in the Middle East. We were given a tour of almost the entire mosque starting with the gardens and ending with the library. The main prayer room could hold thousands of people in and of itself, but when the entire mosque is filled with people there can be up to 7,000 people praying inside. The architecture was beautiful and exotic with imported carpets from Iran, and bright colors and texts from the Koran all across the walls.  While outside there were vast fields of shiny stone for people who did not get a place inside to pray and the library was as modern as any, with a vast amount of books, mostly in Arabic, for those who want to study Islam in a quiet environment. Perhaps one of the most amazing things about this huge piece of architecture is that the Sultan paid for the whole thing out of his own pocket.

The great hall of Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

      At around 11 o’clock the group had to leave the mosque because a prayer time was coming up and we would not be aloud inside while Muslims were trying to pray. We went back to the World Learning Center, where we would eventually attend class, to get a few minutes to eat and get some time in with our beloved internet. We then attended a lecture from a Muslim Shaikh and this was a very interesting experience. Being that I am not a religious person, from a solely historical standpoint it was a great lesson on the history of Islam in Oman. However, what I found most fascinating was the respect he had for other religions, mainly Christianity and Judaism, while still remaining devout to his own.

  

Orientation of Oman

Sultan Qaboos' Clearr View

     As I exited the plane that I had taken from Abu Dhabi to Muscat, Oman’s capital city, I was not entirely sure what to expect. Like many Americans I had little knowledge of the country’s vast quantity of culture and history and while I had the spent the past couple of months reading Omani newspapers I was in no way prepared for what was to come.

     Upon my arrival at “Al Naseem” hotel, located in the neighborhood of Muscat called Mutrah, I noticed that the nightlife was an important part of the culture, especially during the current month of Ramadan. This is due to the late dinners that come with breaking fast during Ramadan, and the entire holiday just feeds the festive attitude that was so potent on this street in Mutrah. There were children in their teens and younger playing soccer outside the hotel and people walking up and down the street coming from the local Mosque, which stands only a few buildings down from the hotel my group and I were staying at. We then decided to explore The Mutrah Souq.  A Souq is an area of an Arabic city that is essentially a flea market but this, was not like any flea market I have ever seen, and it was truly a shock to the senses. This Souq, widely known as the most extravagant one in Muscat, is underground and is just store after store selling trinkets, Omani dress, Omani smells and other such things. Immediately upon entering the Souq you are bombarded with the smell of burning incense and frankincense that Omani people come from all over the country to sell. You will then notice all the colors of the Omani fabric being sold as well as the shine from the gold and silver sold in the jewelry and trinket shops. One last point of interest is the multiple ethnicities. Arabic, Indian, East African and more can be found trying to make a living here. 

     

The Souq in Mutrah

The first night in Oman certainly increased my interest in the country and the second day was no disappointment as well. The group woke up and met in the hotel restaurant where we were made aware of the events that will be taking place in the coming days, weeks and months. We were given an assignment that allowed us to spend a couple more hours in the Mutrah Souq, and the first thing I noticed was how much less crowded it was than the night before, especially with women. However, the people there still displayed a group of ethnicities all trying to make a living by selling anything from daggers to incense out of their stores, which were packed into this market place like sardines.

      We were then taken by bus to the World Learning Center, which is the facility SIT, the international study program I am currently on, uses to provide students with classes and staff with offices. It is a “home-base” for the entire group.  The rest of the day was filled with lectures preparing us for the upcoming semester until five o’clock rolled around and we were taken back to the hotel. The entire group then entertained itself by finding a new place to eat dinner and walk through the souq to once again witness the vibrant nightlife.

Mutrah Main St.

     

A Quick Background

   Although most of you know me and that I am in Oman for the semester, I thought I would just include a few details about myself and why I am here. My name is Eric Schmitz and I am currently studying International Affairs and Arabic at the University of Colorado, Boulder. I am a senior now and will be graduating after this year. I chose to study abroad in Oman mainly because I did not know much about the country and thought it would be an interesting place to spend a few months. I also want to become more proficient in Arabic and I am interested in studying economics in Middle Eastern countries, particularly those that surround the Arabian Peninsula. I will be in Oman from August 27^th, 2010 to December 10^th, 2010 and this is a documentation of my experiences.